QMK is a small program, aka firmware, that luckily is open source and with an incredible documentation page that guides you on how to build it for a large number of custom keyboards, and it has support for split keyboards! On each PCB half 2x 12mm length. This section assumes that you're familiar with keymaps and the use of the QMK tool. (For custom keymaps, it's recommended to build the full environment described above). The communication between both halves is done via TRRS interface, which is an audio-like audio cable but with 4 channels instead of 2, connected through JACK ports installed on each half. TRS should work 1 if you stick with Serial. 10 are going to hold the bottom and the top together. A full build stream that was handy to skim through to see how specific components come together while I was following the written guide. Following the steps in this guide, you will: Create a new repository in GitHub that will contain your user config. Out of the box, the controllers were already in DFU (Device Firmware Upgrade) mode for me. Its quite simple but scary the first time you do it. Depending on the color and release date, some parts may differ, but there is no difference in operation. I quickly discovered /r/ergomechkeyboards, saw some beautiful builds, and with not a whole lot else to do during a global pandemic, the lower cost option of building a keyboard myself while meddling with some electronics was the way to go! Also known as spacers, Cable for 3.5 mm audio, also called AUX cable (4-pole cable recommended), 56 1u keys, 2 1.5u keys for the thumb keys. There are no RGB LEDs on the board. If serial is used, you dont need TRRS cable (4 contacts, used for headphones with a microphone) but just TRS (stereo audio jack). I have built or modified around 50 mechanical keyboards over the past few years or so including MX, Alps, and Topre. Get to know the jargon used in the community, and some hidden gotchas like how deep the mechanical keyboard rabbit hole really goes! For v3.0 add #define SPLIT_USB_DETECT to config.h file. Snap first switches into corners of the plate. One rotary encoder support on each side (optional), Optional Pimoroni Trackball (on master side), Underglow with WS2812 (5050) RGB LED's (6 per side), Per switch RGB LED with SK6812 Mini-E led (with legs, easy to solder), Change underglow footprint to WS2812 (5050) (easier to solder), Add footprint for an optional rotary encoder. The pin header enclosed in the bag of ProMicro is not used. Soldering & Build difficulty: , FREE Shipping Worldwide on all custom cables. Desoldering is frustrating and its easy to mess up things. The interesting part will come in later post that Ill write in which I will show some of the problems that Ive faced and solutions that Ive applied. A simple but comprehensive guide around the basic equipment and procedure to use for soldering keyboards. In 2 sets come 24 + 24 Pins enough for 2 controllers, Optional, but its always fun to put a bongo cat for example later on the screen, to check the wpm or show current layer etc, if the controller will be hotswap, this makes total sense to have, or Micro USB cable (depending on the chosen controller). Contact the vendor instead. and here is the final product . FREE Shipping Worldwide on all custom cables. Check the direction of the diode in question. Note the outlined sets of holes in PCB, and insert the ProMicro into the outlined holes. And corresponding sockets (if used) on the front side of the board. A build guide Lily58 Pro suggests 7mm for MX. Lily58L is 64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. Re-solder the problem socket, or reflow and add solder if the joint is weak. I recommend doing one LED and testing it before continuing. You would need to add support to the firmware on your own. There are several ways how to do it. Connect both halves together with TRRS cable. PCBs are reversible on kriscables.com This means you can choose any of them for left/right when starting the build, SMD only (through hole diodes are not supported), You can alternatively: Bridge 2x the GND + RST pins on pro micro or define in QMK keymap, Optional, but strongly recommended to have them to hotswap easily any time, Needed for controllers hotswap. This is easier before the pro micro headers are soldered. Its clean side should be at the top, visible. The following is needed to build the keyboard. Version 2: theres only one option so it is straightforward. The command might look something like this: Connect the second half and flash it in the same way as the previous one. In addition, please be careful, as the case will be scratched if it hits or rubs a hard thing after assembly. Intro Lily58 Pro Parts List Warnings 1 Flash the Pro Micro Controller with QMK firmware 2 SOLDER THE DIODES 3 SOLDER HOTSWAP SWITCH SOCKETS 4 BRIDGE THE FOUR JUMPERS 5 CONTROLLER'S HOTSWAP SOCKETS 6 SOLDER THE CONTROLLER 7 PCB TEST I have added a single LED to the top surface to act as a layer indicator, this is enabled by bridging 2-3 on J6(indicator bypass). This keyboard is designed originally byNaoki Katahira and modified to create the Pro RE by Ergohaven and information can be found here. The right half has the pro micro mounted up-side up so its mounted differently on each half. . Are you sure you want to create this branch? Im really proud of achieving this point. Version 1: Make sure you insert them into the holes which are marked by the rectangles. DO NOT FORGET THESE; they will be very difficult to access after the pro micro is soldered into place. Customize the information of the OLED panels. On the PCB tin one diode pad first. Keep in mind that this is a prototype of a DIY keyboard. Quick intro into the various switches out there and how they differ. Suggested approach is to build the firmware yourself. A build log / reference post covering my first stab at a hardware project: building a split ergonomic keyboard running the QMK firmware. Click here for the Corne Cherry v2 build guide. Refer to Soldering diodes if you need further guidance. ** Indicator + drop lighting ** A tag already exists with the provided branch name. Latest commit f5ac034 on Aug 6, 2022 History. Lily58 Pro Build Guide; How to add Lily58 RGB underglow backlighting; How to add Rotary Encoders to Lily58 Pro Guide; Build photos are for demonstration purpose ONLY. document.write(new Date().getFullYear()) In the image above you can see the matrix on the PCB where diodes and switch sockets are already soldered. Cannot retrieve contributors at this time. (It's easier to work the diodes if you cautiously open the container onto a small plate.). The pro micro must be installed with the components facing the pcb, and the plain back side facing out. Turn over the board and solder the pins, making sure that the TRRS jack and reset switch are in firm contact with the board. And down the way make my own changes to it for my use case. Carefully snap the first switches to the sockets. If you've socketed the controller, also consider socketing the OLEDs else the controller will be trapped underneath it. create a sandwich with the PCB-Plate-Switches. We will mount parts on each side. Oh, and my build doesn't have any OLED screens to install so I skipped that bit. Please, dont report problems with the design by Keyhive and or firmware to the official Sofle Keyboard repository. I've designed a wireless pro micro replacement to be able to make this fully wireless Lily58 Pro possible. This guide suits both version V1 and V2 of the standard (non-RGB) Sofle Keyboard. Also this build guide no longer applies to their version. Ive built my very own custom lily58 keymap, forked from the main QMK GitHub repository. I aggregate that information here to help serve as a reference for others planning to give it a shot! 13D) Insert the keycaps and connect the TRRS into both halves and after that USB cable to the left half. Their height depends on which switches you use. follow the instructions in the documentation. You can (and i strongly suggest) to flash the controllers before soldering them, excluding the hard work to desolder it in case you brick it while attempting to flash in some wrong way. Use a fairly low temperature (240c) and lots of flux. Make sure Switch Legs are not bended and are aligned with socket holes. The end with the thin line is Cathode (-) and it should go in the direction of the arrow symbol on the PCB. When you plug it in, the on-board LEDs should turn on. To enable drop lighting, short pins 2-3 of J4(Light select), to enable only per key lighting short pins 1-2 of J4. All those switches are connected to an electric board and on that board you put the chip that controls everything. This was the primary guide I followed for putting together the keyboard. Starting with the diodes. Please be careful when inserting the switches into the PCB. Elite-C v3.0 had problems when used with split boards (on both halves). Soldering & Build difficulty: . Their modification is not part of the repository and therefore we cant fix any problems and we cant help with any problems you might have with the design. The above picture is from the crkbd guide shows pin 4 on the table (the table is viewed from the top of the LED). However, because it shares the exact same process as the Kyria, you can follow the build steps of the Kyria Build Guide. Dont overtighten the screws when assembling the acrylic plates as they might crack. This is how the right half should look from the top. Recommended Soldering Tools on Keeb.io. I watched several YouTube videos on soldering and some keyboard build videos, and read a handful of build logs and build guides before ordering parts. Keyhive version: Pay attention, if you purchased Sofle RGB from Keyhive. Build yourself your own split mechanical keyboard and protect your wrists! If not, check if the corresponding sockets or diodes need to be reflowed. Hello and welcome to the temporary Lily58 KB Build Guide. Lily58L is 64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. If it is wrong, remove it and re-solder it. Especially makes sense to socket your OLED Screens if you socketed your controller as before hot swapping the controller you need to hotswap the OLED Screen.If you dont plan to hotswap the OLED screen, nor the controller, then solder it directly to the PCB. You might consider testing every key in case there are problems with the diodes or hot swap sockets. Additional information. At the moment, the build guide isn't ready yet. Lily58 Pro - 58 keys split keyboard 64 columnar stagger and 4 thumb cluster, compatible with Kailh MX and Choc hotswap sockets. Use a piece of tape to fix them and apply solder from the bottom side. A symbol different from the symbol input by "@" or "[" etc. The default keymap is laid out on the assumption that it will be used in the MacOS/US keyboard environment. Version 2: The left side as for version 1. 20 (+8) M2 screws. It is a modified version of the Lily58 Pro pcb from kata0510 Watch the markings on the silkscreen which show the correct orientation. A build guide Lily58 Pro suggests 4mm for Choc and 7mm for MX. 10 x 7mm Brass Standoffs (MX Normal Profile) OR 5mm Brass Standoffs (Choc Low Profile), 58 x Kailh Hotswap Sockets (MX Normal Profile) OR Choc Low Profile Sockets (Choc Low Profile), 2 x Pro Micro Controllers (Comes with Headers to Direct Attach), 2 x 40 Pin Machined Breakable Female Header (Enable Controller Hot Swap). If you are interested in wireless keyboards, I'm designing more fully wireless keyboards besides just a pro micro replacement. This is done on the top side, all 4 solder bridges must be completed. A much better deal than buying pre-made, plus I now have equipment to experiment with and take on other projects. Begin by placing one on each of the corners of the PCB to give you some stability. Install the standoffs onto the switch plates. 20 are going to hold the boards together (via spacers). kata0510 fix Lily58 Pro BuildGuide. The ProMicro board may not be soldered and attached firmly. The build is completed by attaching the four rubber feet to the back of each board. Prepare the Pro Micro. Moving the iron back and forth from the pin can help to flow the solder under the LED. Was this long process worth it? SofleRGB uses QMK firmware, it can use any Sofle keymap. quality lube. There are plenty of designs out there that have far fewer keys than 58, but for this one I still have a full number row that I read was a better way to be introduced to the layout and the need to leverage keymaps and layers. Here's what it looks like about a week in: It's only been a week and I'm still slowly getting the hang of things. The following is needed to build the keyboard. I've estimated it's battery life somewhere between 1-2 months. As you can see the list of components could be a little overwhelming if you are not in this world. I could assure you that Yes, not only that I learned a lot but my wrist pain has gone away! Solder the controllers hotswap sockets on the top side of the PCB, in the marked rectangle section. I would say start with the ZMK documentation . Hope you like them! In the case of bad key switch insertion: This has been corrected in the v2.1 boards, and hopefully hasnt caught too many people out. Gave me a good idea of some tools and equipment I should have handy when putting together the keyboard. You should be familiar with QMK and be able to make it work on your local environment. Please read the whole guide before starting the build this might help avoid possible mistakes beforehand.Please respect the order precedence of this guide as it helps identify mistakes and excludes possible errors on early stages out of the equation. Use metallic tweezersto bridge any 2 switch pins (on the bottom side of the PCB, this simulates a keypress) or insert switches into the soldered hotswap sockets on the PCB.If it registers the shorts/keypresses you did a great job and may proceed with the build.. Black PCBs. The sensation between from a non-lubed against a lubed switch is like day and night, you will feel a smoother activation point and quieter sounds, as this process eliminates all the roughness of the plastic material. Repeat all the steps above on the another half. As mentioned before keyboard parts are usually sold out as they are not manufactured in large chunks. When Detecting USB port, reset your controller now is displayed, press the reset button on the keyboard to start writing. Test the PCB by checking if it registers keypresses. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by Keyhive. there are 58 switches so a ton of work to do. Kailh Box and choc switches require a bit of force for installation. With the QMK Toolbox route, the setup was as simple as: The microcontrollers should both be good to go! This substrate (PCB) is reversible. First, I spend long hours in front of my computer and All the process could be separated into 3 sections: 1) soldering electronic parts 2) Lubing the switches 3) putting all together. The labels for JP1 and JP2 were accidentally swapped. They are easy to break. Put all keycaps on top of the keyswitches, which are the plastic covers. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by kriscables.Start with the one half of the Lily58 Pro PCB and only after completing all the steps below proceed to the another half. I relied on several online resources to learn about what goes into building a keyboard, the basic equipment needed, and the firmware pieces necessary for it all to work. The diodes are mounted on the back side of the board. I dont have Elite-C so this is untested, but should work. They are necessary for OLED support and if you dont socket you Pro Micro you will not be able to do it later. (MX: 7mm Choc: 4mm), Attach four key switches to the top plate. Another possible approach is described at splitkb.com. Now you have completed the build process, congrats comrade! Keep in mind height of your Pro Micro which may be different based on if/which sockets you have used for Pro Micro. The Lily58 Pro/Pro RE keyboard is a64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. If the part of the string stops working, resolder the last working one, and the first to fail, then if needed replace them. , As an advice, to build your firmware use a virtualized environment because QMK depends on a bunch of system libraries with specific versions that may not match your system. And to finish with the soldering part you must solder the JACK sockets and the RESET buttons to the PCB. Thank you for your hard work. You signed in with another tab or window. Connect the left and right sides with a TRRS cable, connect the MicroUSB cable to ProMicro on the left side (in the case of the default key map), and check if the key responds. Dismiss, Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. The main half acts as a master that forwards events produced from its sibling to the computer. Q. into a rabbit hole while choosing parts, you only have to visit the Mechanical Keyboard subreddit to realize that. Lily58 Pro - ERGONOMIC SPLIT KEYBOARD SOLDERING BUILD GUIDE (beginner friendly). Insert headers into holes. Theres also a basic support in QMK Configurator but theres no default layout yet and encoders are not supported. Make sure you have orientation right - they are all oriented to the same side. Be careful: KailhBOX switches and Choc switches require some power for installation. Cherry MX Switch Comparison by KeyMouse. The Lily58 is a perfect choice for people who want to be on a split keyboard but still want to have a fairly standard amount of keys. After confirming that there are no bends in the switch pins, you can attach it firmly by starting from the middle row and working outward. If you are building a Lily58 rev1.0 with per-key RGB but without underglow, you need to solder the jumper marked JP1 instead of the JP2 indicated in the build guide. Make sure they are flush with PCB and match the orientation shown on the silkscreen. In my case, I choose Krytox GPL 205 grade 0, the best I could buy online at the moment. Sockets for switches belong again on the back side, the same side as diodes. If you wish to experiment, use 2.54mm headers and jumpers. Disconnect the USB cable. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by Keyhive. Carefully snap the first switches to the sockets. Insert the OLED pin into the socket, attach the OLED module to it, and solder the four pins. Attach the parts and fix them temporarily with masking tape. Put at least 4 adhesive rubber feet in the corners so the keyboard is not moving when you type. Even after many years of use, the Sculpt keyboard still functions really well and so I wouldn't say it has any faults for my day-to-day needs, but I wanted to go back to the mechanical typing experience and give other layouts a shot. Connect one half to USB, flash the firmware (always follow the actuall instructions in the QMK documentation! You signed in with another tab or window. Decrease quantity for Lily58 Pro Keyboard Kit, Increase quantity for Lily58 Pro Keyboard Kit. 1 contributor. 10 (+4) M2 spacers. This behavior can be switched programmatically without any problem. I used brass ones but you can also buy nicer from anodised aluminium. The image shows a soldered MX socket; please install Choc socket on the lower side. If you chose to not use OLED for both halves you should disable support for oled (set OLED_DRIVER_ENABLE to no in keymaps/defualt/rules.mk). 2, This can be changed, look for setting handednesss in QMK documentation. The awesome QMK Configurator online tool let's you pick a keyboard, WYSIWYG yourself a keymap, and even get a compiled firmware download that you can then just flash onto your device! With a bit more solder than usual on the tip solder down the other side to the pad on PCB. Build as usual. Same as the diodes, on the PCB tin one socket pad first. The other advantage is that the Lily58 mounts the TRRS jack on the top, so it sits noticeably lower then than the Iris, which is good for ergonomics. A good alternative would be to use an existing keyboard with leds to inject the signal and power through the LED header. If you dont have all the necessary parts, please read about how to source the parts. and has the the following additional features. It may short out. Lily58 KB Build Guide. For these it is definitely best to do them in order, and test regularly. Add more. I normally flash the default Lily58 Pro layout. Dont connect or disconnect the TRRS cable when the keyboard is powered. LEAD TIME in FAQ Tab. Add socket for OLED display.
